Mixing
Alternative to Silicone Wood Filler for Door Frame
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
add a comment |
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
Jan 28 at 13:04
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
Jan 29 at 12:54
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
Jan 29 at 14:48
add a comment |
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
edited Jan 28 at 18:39
Machavity
7,96611940
7,96611940
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
asked Jan 28 at 9:03
BellsBells
292
292
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
Jan 28 at 13:04
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
Jan 29 at 12:54
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
Jan 29 at 14:48
add a comment |
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
Jan 28 at 13:04
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
Jan 29 at 12:54
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
Jan 29 at 14:48
4
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
Jan 28 at 13:04
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
Jan 28 at 13:04
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
Jan 29 at 12:54
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
Jan 29 at 12:54
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
Jan 29 at 14:48
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
Jan 29 at 14:48
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
Jan 28 at 15:32
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:51
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:54
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
Jan 28 at 15:32
add a comment |
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
Jan 28 at 15:32
add a comment |
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
answered Jan 28 at 14:27
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
9,24911325
9,24911325
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
Jan 28 at 15:32
add a comment |
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
Jan 28 at 15:32
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
Jan 28 at 15:32
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
Jan 28 at 15:32
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
edited Jan 28 at 14:38
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
answered Jan 28 at 11:56
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
11.9k11332
add a comment |
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:51
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:54
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:51
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:54
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
answered Jan 28 at 18:38
MachavityMachavity
7,96611940
7,96611940
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:51
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:54
add a comment |
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:51
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:54
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:51
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:51
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:54
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
Jan 28 at 18:54
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
answered Jan 29 at 8:47
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1807
1807
add a comment |
add a comment |
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4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
Jan 28 at 13:04
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
Jan 29 at 12:54
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
Jan 29 at 14:48