Mixing
How to fit a screw into a drilled big hole on wall?
I am fitting a window blind on a wall.
The wall is made of plaster board as far as I have known.
I have drilled a hole on wall bigger than the screw size.
The drilled hole on the wall has a diameter of 6mm
The screw I try to fit in has a diameter of 3mm
Here is the image of the drilled hole o the wall: 
Here is the image of the screw with the window blind holder:
How do I fit the screw tightly and safely on the large drilled hole on wall?
screws drill blinds
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
add a comment |
I am fitting a window blind on a wall.
The wall is made of plaster board as far as I have known.
I have drilled a hole on wall bigger than the screw size.
The drilled hole on the wall has a diameter of 6mm
The screw I try to fit in has a diameter of 3mm
Here is the image of the drilled hole o the wall:
Here is the image of the screw with the window blind holder:
How do I fit the screw tightly and safely on the large drilled hole on wall?
screws drill blinds
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
Does the metal bracket offer more hole locations than you actually need? If so, perhaps you could just drill a new hole...
– unutbu
Jan 20 at 12:33
1
@unutbu, hole location at the top are not possible as the wall structure is weak. So the better option is to place the screw at the side
– hunterex
Jan 20 at 12:40
1
Can you edit your question to say what the wall is made of please?
– Martin Bonner
Jan 21 at 9:32
@MartinBonner - indeed. I think far to many people are assuming everybody uses plasterboard/drywall everywhere... that wall looks far more like there's going to be brick or block behind it; in which case the answer would be far different [double-depth hole & longer screw to reach a rawl plug in the harder substrate]
– Tetsujin
Jan 23 at 11:44
add a comment |
I am fitting a window blind on a wall.
The wall is made of plaster board as far as I have known.
I have drilled a hole on wall bigger than the screw size.
The drilled hole on the wall has a diameter of 6mm
The screw I try to fit in has a diameter of 3mm
Here is the image of the drilled hole o the wall:
Here is the image of the screw with the window blind holder:
How do I fit the screw tightly and safely on the large drilled hole on wall?
screws drill blinds
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
I am fitting a window blind on a wall.
The wall is made of plaster board as far as I have known.
I have drilled a hole on wall bigger than the screw size.
The drilled hole on the wall has a diameter of 6mm
The screw I try to fit in has a diameter of 3mm
Here is the image of the drilled hole o the wall:
Here is the image of the screw with the window blind holder:
How do I fit the screw tightly and safely on the large drilled hole on wall?
screws drill blinds
screws drill blinds
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
edited Jan 21 at 9:36
hunterex
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
asked Jan 20 at 12:11
hunterexhunterex
7114
7114
Does the metal bracket offer more hole locations than you actually need? If so, perhaps you could just drill a new hole...
– unutbu
Jan 20 at 12:33
1
@unutbu, hole location at the top are not possible as the wall structure is weak. So the better option is to place the screw at the side
– hunterex
Jan 20 at 12:40
1
Can you edit your question to say what the wall is made of please?
– Martin Bonner
Jan 21 at 9:32
@MartinBonner - indeed. I think far to many people are assuming everybody uses plasterboard/drywall everywhere... that wall looks far more like there's going to be brick or block behind it; in which case the answer would be far different [double-depth hole & longer screw to reach a rawl plug in the harder substrate]
– Tetsujin
Jan 23 at 11:44
add a comment |
Does the metal bracket offer more hole locations than you actually need? If so, perhaps you could just drill a new hole...
– unutbu
Jan 20 at 12:33
1
@unutbu, hole location at the top are not possible as the wall structure is weak. So the better option is to place the screw at the side
– hunterex
Jan 20 at 12:40
1
Can you edit your question to say what the wall is made of please?
– Martin Bonner
Jan 21 at 9:32
@MartinBonner - indeed. I think far to many people are assuming everybody uses plasterboard/drywall everywhere... that wall looks far more like there's going to be brick or block behind it; in which case the answer would be far different [double-depth hole & longer screw to reach a rawl plug in the harder substrate]
– Tetsujin
Jan 23 at 11:44
Does the metal bracket offer more hole locations than you actually need? If so, perhaps you could just drill a new hole...
– unutbu
Jan 20 at 12:33
Does the metal bracket offer more hole locations than you actually need? If so, perhaps you could just drill a new hole...
– unutbu
Jan 20 at 12:33
1
1
@unutbu, hole location at the top are not possible as the wall structure is weak. So the better option is to place the screw at the side
– hunterex
Jan 20 at 12:40
@unutbu, hole location at the top are not possible as the wall structure is weak. So the better option is to place the screw at the side
– hunterex
Jan 20 at 12:40
1
1
Can you edit your question to say what the wall is made of please?
– Martin Bonner
Jan 21 at 9:32
Can you edit your question to say what the wall is made of please?
– Martin Bonner
Jan 21 at 9:32
@MartinBonner - indeed. I think far to many people are assuming everybody uses plasterboard/drywall everywhere... that wall looks far more like there's going to be brick or block behind it; in which case the answer would be far different [double-depth hole & longer screw to reach a rawl plug in the harder substrate]
– Tetsujin
Jan 23 at 11:44
@MartinBonner - indeed. I think far to many people are assuming everybody uses plasterboard/drywall everywhere... that wall looks far more like there's going to be brick or block behind it; in which case the answer would be far different [double-depth hole & longer screw to reach a rawl plug in the harder substrate]
– Tetsujin
Jan 23 at 11:44
add a comment |
10 Answers
10
active
oldest
votes
For this you can use wall drilling anchors as shown in the images below. They are also known as wall plugs or rawl plugs. You can get them from any hardware shop.
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
5
Also, in general, it's important to check the load ratings of anchors. In OP's case we can see the bracket and that limits the screw size (and anchor rating) so it's likely not an issue, but some blinds can be heavy and need larger anchors if going into drywall and not into a stud.
– J...
Jan 21 at 14:14
An old trick is to put tooth picks or matches (without the combustible material) into the hole with some glue to fill it and the put put the screw in. But the plugs suggested is a much better solution.
– nivs1978
Jan 22 at 13:24
2
These aren't really designed for plaster and will often crack the plaster when you put in the screw. One trick I found was to drill an even bigger hold in the plaster and then 'glue' an anchor in with joint compound for light duty needs.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:20
@JimmyJames Excellent point. Drywall anchors are really designed for drywall - they need the paper cladding to hold everything together. It's not clear if OP's wall is plaster/lath or drywall, but it looks like it could be either. If it's not drywall then these are definitely not suitable.
– J...
Jan 23 at 12:58
@J... Yeah I'm not totally clear on what 'plaster board' is exactly. It could just be drywall. I had a plumbing access cover literally just drop off the wall one day because it was secured with screws into plaster which had cracked. Toggle bolts wouldn't work so I made holes larger than the drywall anchors and pushed them in with joint compound. Good enough to get the panel back in place but I would not use this technique for anything weight bearing.
– JimmyJames
Jan 23 at 15:47
|
show 2 more comments
If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster.
Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board)
Rightmost is your standard cheap wall insert. It is supposed to flange out as the screw goes through the middle. Avoid where possible.
Second from right is a plastic toggle. These are pretty good because the two bits on the side fold and press against the inside of the plaster board. Ideally they should be sized for the thickness of your board.
Middle shows the large-radius coarse thread variant of the first one. These are astonishingly good. For double the radius you're getting at least four times the holding power.
Second from left is the toggle bolt. It needs a slightly bigger hole for the legs to go through, but when expanded inside the wall (as pictured, its got a spring) then there's a heap of holding area. Can hold medium sized mirrors.
Leftmost is a "mollybolt" and is an older design, harder to find. This one has four legs which fold out inside the wall when the screw is tightened. Note they do not adust for thickness - you need to size them for the thickness of the wallboard you're using. The pictured one is probably for half to 3/4 inch depth. A 1/4 inch or 6mm thick wallboard would have less shank on it.
Not pictured are the super-cheap tube ones that come with many cheap goods like smoke detectors. Not worth it at all.
Note, once installed, none of these plugs are going to come out without leaving a large hole.
Your other option is to plate the area under the curtain rail with some solid wood as reinforcement. 10mm thick would be a minimum IMO. Screw that to the studs where they cross, and then you can hang the curtain rail hooks whereever you need them.
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
1
Number 3 is extraordinarily strong. I use them whenever possible
– vikingsteve
Jan 22 at 10:50
1
I really love the middle anchor as well (E-Z Ancor) due to being able to install them quickly with a drill. Although they are described as "self-tapping", I prefer to give them a small pilot hole for alignment and then proceed to then drill all of the necessary anchors at once after preparing a surface.
– Zhro
Jan 22 at 12:48
1
I have found toggle bolts to be a good option for plaster. The others can end up cracking the plaster and falling out.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:22
1
Don't even think of using standard plugs (rightmost) on plasterboard. They'll pull out and damage the board when they do. They are for use in bricks, where they hold superbly well. They also work in lightweight concrete blocks, but there are special versions (none of the above) which are sold explicitly for concrete blocks and which hold much better.
– nigel222
Jan 22 at 16:26
3
@vikingsteve Which #3? #3 from the left or #3 from the right?
– conman
Jan 22 at 19:52
|
show 4 more comments
As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood.
If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
7
Wooden matchsticks (with the tip removed) also work well.
– mpdonadio
Jan 20 at 21:31
2
Good tip. Before those plastic expanding plugs (like in the 50's), they used to pound round wood blocks into holes and put a wood screw in there. I've seen this in old block walls in old buildings.
– element11
Jan 21 at 14:43
1
i use gofl tees :)
– Quoc Vu
Jan 21 at 18:25
I had to do something similar (wood, not drywall) and I just bought a wooden dowel, cut to length and then jammed it in there with wood glue, the screw went in beautifully.
– WELZ
Jan 22 at 13:07
add a comment |
The wall looks like plaster or drywall (aka sheetrock). You insert an "anchor" into the hole and thread a screw into the anchor. plastic anchors for plaster or drywall
But if there is solid wood of sufficient dimensions behind the plaster you use a long enough screw to thread into the wood. In your case, if you have good wood behind the plaster, but you have drilled too large a hole for the screw, just use a long enough anchor to fit an inch or more into the wood and thread in the screw. The anchor will expand as the screw goes in and will grip the sides of the hole in the wood.
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
add a comment |
For oversized holes in wood, lightly tap in a glue coated dowel and redrill the screw hole. This may require widening the hole to the next available dowel size. For holes in un-backed drywall, use an anchor. (Your hardware store will have various kinds, but the simple plastic ones usually work fine for light loads.) If the particular hole in question try inserting an anchor first. If it has wood behind it that prevents use of an anchor, use the dowel and cut it flush to the drywall surface. Fill in any gaps between the dowel and the drywall with spackling, drywall mud or other filler recommended by your hardware store.
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
After waiting for the glue to dry, e.g. Overnight.
– Harper
Jan 22 at 21:56
add a comment |
Instead of a dowel you could squirt some wood glue in hole and put wooded toothpicks in until you can't fit anymore. Wait a few hours and break off the toothpicks flush with the drywall. You should be able to use the original screw. I am a finish carpenter and have done this before.
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
Just seen the post below also mentioning the toothpicks. Screws work on compression so as long as the hole is filled with wood you'll be good
– Scottieboombox
Jan 20 at 20:23
add a comment |
You can close up the big hole with some putty, and screw your screw after it dries.
It is always recommended to use a plastic anchor for better wall grip.
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
1
Sounds like you're suggesting screwing into a repair made with putty? Putty is cosmetic, and will not hold a screw, It would all come out of the hole even if you tried this.
– JPhi1618
Jan 21 at 16:09
@JPhi1618, general-use drywall joint compound is as hard as drywall itself, when properly applied.
– sleblanc
Jan 21 at 20:49
I think this answer is correct but need a lot of clarification on what types of putty are appropriate, and if any techniques (taping, etc) are needed.
– Adonalsium
Jan 22 at 14:40
add a comment |
I think that using anchors, already mentioned, is the best solution. Besides the already mentioned answers, there are many different options available to you:
Drill an 8mm hole in the bracket and use a 7 mm screw into the 6mm hole.
Drill another hole in the bracket that is about a centimeter or so away from the original hole and insert a screw through that hole. Generally, the hole in the bracket should be 1 or 2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw.
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
add a comment |
If your hole is too large to take a wall plug or anchor, then your best solution is to fill the hole with filler (e.g. Polyfilla), leave it to fully harden, and then redrill the hole to the correct size. You don't need to worry too much about filling the hole perfectly flush - it'll be covered by the plate anyway.
Looking at your hole though, I suspect you may just want a larger diameter.
Note that all screws into plasterboard/drywall should use some kind of appropriate wall plug or anchor for plasterboard. Contrary to spurious claims by some screw manufacturers, it is not possible to securely fasten a screw directly into plasterboard. The point loads on the screw thread will always weaken the plasterboard, and the fixing will inevitably pull loose after not very long. This is particularly going to be an issue for your blind - you don't want it falling off!
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
add a comment |
Here's a technique I learned from a my uncle who's 80 years old.
Find a a piece of wood that could be hammered into the hole.
hammer it and break the the part that's sticking out.
Done, time to drill the screw to the hole.
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
add a comment |
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10 Answers
10
active
oldest
votes
10 Answers
10
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
For this you can use wall drilling anchors as shown in the images below. They are also known as wall plugs or rawl plugs. You can get them from any hardware shop.
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
5
Also, in general, it's important to check the load ratings of anchors. In OP's case we can see the bracket and that limits the screw size (and anchor rating) so it's likely not an issue, but some blinds can be heavy and need larger anchors if going into drywall and not into a stud.
– J...
Jan 21 at 14:14
An old trick is to put tooth picks or matches (without the combustible material) into the hole with some glue to fill it and the put put the screw in. But the plugs suggested is a much better solution.
– nivs1978
Jan 22 at 13:24
2
These aren't really designed for plaster and will often crack the plaster when you put in the screw. One trick I found was to drill an even bigger hold in the plaster and then 'glue' an anchor in with joint compound for light duty needs.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:20
@JimmyJames Excellent point. Drywall anchors are really designed for drywall - they need the paper cladding to hold everything together. It's not clear if OP's wall is plaster/lath or drywall, but it looks like it could be either. If it's not drywall then these are definitely not suitable.
– J...
Jan 23 at 12:58
@J... Yeah I'm not totally clear on what 'plaster board' is exactly. It could just be drywall. I had a plumbing access cover literally just drop off the wall one day because it was secured with screws into plaster which had cracked. Toggle bolts wouldn't work so I made holes larger than the drywall anchors and pushed them in with joint compound. Good enough to get the panel back in place but I would not use this technique for anything weight bearing.
– JimmyJames
Jan 23 at 15:47
|
show 2 more comments
For this you can use wall drilling anchors as shown in the images below. They are also known as wall plugs or rawl plugs. You can get them from any hardware shop.
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
5
Also, in general, it's important to check the load ratings of anchors. In OP's case we can see the bracket and that limits the screw size (and anchor rating) so it's likely not an issue, but some blinds can be heavy and need larger anchors if going into drywall and not into a stud.
– J...
Jan 21 at 14:14
An old trick is to put tooth picks or matches (without the combustible material) into the hole with some glue to fill it and the put put the screw in. But the plugs suggested is a much better solution.
– nivs1978
Jan 22 at 13:24
2
These aren't really designed for plaster and will often crack the plaster when you put in the screw. One trick I found was to drill an even bigger hold in the plaster and then 'glue' an anchor in with joint compound for light duty needs.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:20
@JimmyJames Excellent point. Drywall anchors are really designed for drywall - they need the paper cladding to hold everything together. It's not clear if OP's wall is plaster/lath or drywall, but it looks like it could be either. If it's not drywall then these are definitely not suitable.
– J...
Jan 23 at 12:58
@J... Yeah I'm not totally clear on what 'plaster board' is exactly. It could just be drywall. I had a plumbing access cover literally just drop off the wall one day because it was secured with screws into plaster which had cracked. Toggle bolts wouldn't work so I made holes larger than the drywall anchors and pushed them in with joint compound. Good enough to get the panel back in place but I would not use this technique for anything weight bearing.
– JimmyJames
Jan 23 at 15:47
|
show 2 more comments
For this you can use wall drilling anchors as shown in the images below. They are also known as wall plugs or rawl plugs. You can get them from any hardware shop.
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
For this you can use wall drilling anchors as shown in the images below. They are also known as wall plugs or rawl plugs. You can get them from any hardware shop.
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
edited Jan 23 at 20:03
doppelgreener
1034
1034
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
answered Jan 20 at 17:45
RameshRamesh
51113
51113
5
Also, in general, it's important to check the load ratings of anchors. In OP's case we can see the bracket and that limits the screw size (and anchor rating) so it's likely not an issue, but some blinds can be heavy and need larger anchors if going into drywall and not into a stud.
– J...
Jan 21 at 14:14
An old trick is to put tooth picks or matches (without the combustible material) into the hole with some glue to fill it and the put put the screw in. But the plugs suggested is a much better solution.
– nivs1978
Jan 22 at 13:24
2
These aren't really designed for plaster and will often crack the plaster when you put in the screw. One trick I found was to drill an even bigger hold in the plaster and then 'glue' an anchor in with joint compound for light duty needs.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:20
@JimmyJames Excellent point. Drywall anchors are really designed for drywall - they need the paper cladding to hold everything together. It's not clear if OP's wall is plaster/lath or drywall, but it looks like it could be either. If it's not drywall then these are definitely not suitable.
– J...
Jan 23 at 12:58
@J... Yeah I'm not totally clear on what 'plaster board' is exactly. It could just be drywall. I had a plumbing access cover literally just drop off the wall one day because it was secured with screws into plaster which had cracked. Toggle bolts wouldn't work so I made holes larger than the drywall anchors and pushed them in with joint compound. Good enough to get the panel back in place but I would not use this technique for anything weight bearing.
– JimmyJames
Jan 23 at 15:47
|
show 2 more comments
5
Also, in general, it's important to check the load ratings of anchors. In OP's case we can see the bracket and that limits the screw size (and anchor rating) so it's likely not an issue, but some blinds can be heavy and need larger anchors if going into drywall and not into a stud.
– J...
Jan 21 at 14:14
An old trick is to put tooth picks or matches (without the combustible material) into the hole with some glue to fill it and the put put the screw in. But the plugs suggested is a much better solution.
– nivs1978
Jan 22 at 13:24
2
These aren't really designed for plaster and will often crack the plaster when you put in the screw. One trick I found was to drill an even bigger hold in the plaster and then 'glue' an anchor in with joint compound for light duty needs.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:20
@JimmyJames Excellent point. Drywall anchors are really designed for drywall - they need the paper cladding to hold everything together. It's not clear if OP's wall is plaster/lath or drywall, but it looks like it could be either. If it's not drywall then these are definitely not suitable.
– J...
Jan 23 at 12:58
@J... Yeah I'm not totally clear on what 'plaster board' is exactly. It could just be drywall. I had a plumbing access cover literally just drop off the wall one day because it was secured with screws into plaster which had cracked. Toggle bolts wouldn't work so I made holes larger than the drywall anchors and pushed them in with joint compound. Good enough to get the panel back in place but I would not use this technique for anything weight bearing.
– JimmyJames
Jan 23 at 15:47
5
5
Also, in general, it's important to check the load ratings of anchors. In OP's case we can see the bracket and that limits the screw size (and anchor rating) so it's likely not an issue, but some blinds can be heavy and need larger anchors if going into drywall and not into a stud.
– J...
Jan 21 at 14:14
Also, in general, it's important to check the load ratings of anchors. In OP's case we can see the bracket and that limits the screw size (and anchor rating) so it's likely not an issue, but some blinds can be heavy and need larger anchors if going into drywall and not into a stud.
– J...
Jan 21 at 14:14
An old trick is to put tooth picks or matches (without the combustible material) into the hole with some glue to fill it and the put put the screw in. But the plugs suggested is a much better solution.
– nivs1978
Jan 22 at 13:24
An old trick is to put tooth picks or matches (without the combustible material) into the hole with some glue to fill it and the put put the screw in. But the plugs suggested is a much better solution.
– nivs1978
Jan 22 at 13:24
2
2
These aren't really designed for plaster and will often crack the plaster when you put in the screw. One trick I found was to drill an even bigger hold in the plaster and then 'glue' an anchor in with joint compound for light duty needs.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:20
These aren't really designed for plaster and will often crack the plaster when you put in the screw. One trick I found was to drill an even bigger hold in the plaster and then 'glue' an anchor in with joint compound for light duty needs.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:20
@JimmyJames Excellent point. Drywall anchors are really designed for drywall - they need the paper cladding to hold everything together. It's not clear if OP's wall is plaster/lath or drywall, but it looks like it could be either. If it's not drywall then these are definitely not suitable.
– J...
Jan 23 at 12:58
@JimmyJames Excellent point. Drywall anchors are really designed for drywall - they need the paper cladding to hold everything together. It's not clear if OP's wall is plaster/lath or drywall, but it looks like it could be either. If it's not drywall then these are definitely not suitable.
– J...
Jan 23 at 12:58
@J... Yeah I'm not totally clear on what 'plaster board' is exactly. It could just be drywall. I had a plumbing access cover literally just drop off the wall one day because it was secured with screws into plaster which had cracked. Toggle bolts wouldn't work so I made holes larger than the drywall anchors and pushed them in with joint compound. Good enough to get the panel back in place but I would not use this technique for anything weight bearing.
– JimmyJames
Jan 23 at 15:47
@J... Yeah I'm not totally clear on what 'plaster board' is exactly. It could just be drywall. I had a plumbing access cover literally just drop off the wall one day because it was secured with screws into plaster which had cracked. Toggle bolts wouldn't work so I made holes larger than the drywall anchors and pushed them in with joint compound. Good enough to get the panel back in place but I would not use this technique for anything weight bearing.
– JimmyJames
Jan 23 at 15:47
|
show 2 more comments
If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster.
Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board)
Rightmost is your standard cheap wall insert. It is supposed to flange out as the screw goes through the middle. Avoid where possible.
Second from right is a plastic toggle. These are pretty good because the two bits on the side fold and press against the inside of the plaster board. Ideally they should be sized for the thickness of your board.
Middle shows the large-radius coarse thread variant of the first one. These are astonishingly good. For double the radius you're getting at least four times the holding power.
Second from left is the toggle bolt. It needs a slightly bigger hole for the legs to go through, but when expanded inside the wall (as pictured, its got a spring) then there's a heap of holding area. Can hold medium sized mirrors.
Leftmost is a "mollybolt" and is an older design, harder to find. This one has four legs which fold out inside the wall when the screw is tightened. Note they do not adust for thickness - you need to size them for the thickness of the wallboard you're using. The pictured one is probably for half to 3/4 inch depth. A 1/4 inch or 6mm thick wallboard would have less shank on it.
Not pictured are the super-cheap tube ones that come with many cheap goods like smoke detectors. Not worth it at all.
Note, once installed, none of these plugs are going to come out without leaving a large hole.
Your other option is to plate the area under the curtain rail with some solid wood as reinforcement. 10mm thick would be a minimum IMO. Screw that to the studs where they cross, and then you can hang the curtain rail hooks whereever you need them.
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
1
Number 3 is extraordinarily strong. I use them whenever possible
– vikingsteve
Jan 22 at 10:50
1
I really love the middle anchor as well (E-Z Ancor) due to being able to install them quickly with a drill. Although they are described as "self-tapping", I prefer to give them a small pilot hole for alignment and then proceed to then drill all of the necessary anchors at once after preparing a surface.
– Zhro
Jan 22 at 12:48
1
I have found toggle bolts to be a good option for plaster. The others can end up cracking the plaster and falling out.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:22
1
Don't even think of using standard plugs (rightmost) on plasterboard. They'll pull out and damage the board when they do. They are for use in bricks, where they hold superbly well. They also work in lightweight concrete blocks, but there are special versions (none of the above) which are sold explicitly for concrete blocks and which hold much better.
– nigel222
Jan 22 at 16:26
3
@vikingsteve Which #3? #3 from the left or #3 from the right?
– conman
Jan 22 at 19:52
|
show 4 more comments
If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster.
Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board)
Rightmost is your standard cheap wall insert. It is supposed to flange out as the screw goes through the middle. Avoid where possible.
Second from right is a plastic toggle. These are pretty good because the two bits on the side fold and press against the inside of the plaster board. Ideally they should be sized for the thickness of your board.
Middle shows the large-radius coarse thread variant of the first one. These are astonishingly good. For double the radius you're getting at least four times the holding power.
Second from left is the toggle bolt. It needs a slightly bigger hole for the legs to go through, but when expanded inside the wall (as pictured, its got a spring) then there's a heap of holding area. Can hold medium sized mirrors.
Leftmost is a "mollybolt" and is an older design, harder to find. This one has four legs which fold out inside the wall when the screw is tightened. Note they do not adust for thickness - you need to size them for the thickness of the wallboard you're using. The pictured one is probably for half to 3/4 inch depth. A 1/4 inch or 6mm thick wallboard would have less shank on it.
Not pictured are the super-cheap tube ones that come with many cheap goods like smoke detectors. Not worth it at all.
Note, once installed, none of these plugs are going to come out without leaving a large hole.
Your other option is to plate the area under the curtain rail with some solid wood as reinforcement. 10mm thick would be a minimum IMO. Screw that to the studs where they cross, and then you can hang the curtain rail hooks whereever you need them.
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
1
Number 3 is extraordinarily strong. I use them whenever possible
– vikingsteve
Jan 22 at 10:50
1
I really love the middle anchor as well (E-Z Ancor) due to being able to install them quickly with a drill. Although they are described as "self-tapping", I prefer to give them a small pilot hole for alignment and then proceed to then drill all of the necessary anchors at once after preparing a surface.
– Zhro
Jan 22 at 12:48
1
I have found toggle bolts to be a good option for plaster. The others can end up cracking the plaster and falling out.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:22
1
Don't even think of using standard plugs (rightmost) on plasterboard. They'll pull out and damage the board when they do. They are for use in bricks, where they hold superbly well. They also work in lightweight concrete blocks, but there are special versions (none of the above) which are sold explicitly for concrete blocks and which hold much better.
– nigel222
Jan 22 at 16:26
3
@vikingsteve Which #3? #3 from the left or #3 from the right?
– conman
Jan 22 at 19:52
|
show 4 more comments
If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster.
Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board)
Rightmost is your standard cheap wall insert. It is supposed to flange out as the screw goes through the middle. Avoid where possible.
Second from right is a plastic toggle. These are pretty good because the two bits on the side fold and press against the inside of the plaster board. Ideally they should be sized for the thickness of your board.
Middle shows the large-radius coarse thread variant of the first one. These are astonishingly good. For double the radius you're getting at least four times the holding power.
Second from left is the toggle bolt. It needs a slightly bigger hole for the legs to go through, but when expanded inside the wall (as pictured, its got a spring) then there's a heap of holding area. Can hold medium sized mirrors.
Leftmost is a "mollybolt" and is an older design, harder to find. This one has four legs which fold out inside the wall when the screw is tightened. Note they do not adust for thickness - you need to size them for the thickness of the wallboard you're using. The pictured one is probably for half to 3/4 inch depth. A 1/4 inch or 6mm thick wallboard would have less shank on it.
Not pictured are the super-cheap tube ones that come with many cheap goods like smoke detectors. Not worth it at all.
Note, once installed, none of these plugs are going to come out without leaving a large hole.
Your other option is to plate the area under the curtain rail with some solid wood as reinforcement. 10mm thick would be a minimum IMO. Screw that to the studs where they cross, and then you can hang the curtain rail hooks whereever you need them.
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster.
Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board)
Rightmost is your standard cheap wall insert. It is supposed to flange out as the screw goes through the middle. Avoid where possible.
Second from right is a plastic toggle. These are pretty good because the two bits on the side fold and press against the inside of the plaster board. Ideally they should be sized for the thickness of your board.
Middle shows the large-radius coarse thread variant of the first one. These are astonishingly good. For double the radius you're getting at least four times the holding power.
Second from left is the toggle bolt. It needs a slightly bigger hole for the legs to go through, but when expanded inside the wall (as pictured, its got a spring) then there's a heap of holding area. Can hold medium sized mirrors.
Leftmost is a "mollybolt" and is an older design, harder to find. This one has four legs which fold out inside the wall when the screw is tightened. Note they do not adust for thickness - you need to size them for the thickness of the wallboard you're using. The pictured one is probably for half to 3/4 inch depth. A 1/4 inch or 6mm thick wallboard would have less shank on it.
Not pictured are the super-cheap tube ones that come with many cheap goods like smoke detectors. Not worth it at all.
Note, once installed, none of these plugs are going to come out without leaving a large hole.
Your other option is to plate the area under the curtain rail with some solid wood as reinforcement. 10mm thick would be a minimum IMO. Screw that to the studs where they cross, and then you can hang the curtain rail hooks whereever you need them.
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
edited Jan 23 at 0:00
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
answered Jan 21 at 10:13
CriggieCriggie
1,056518
1,056518
1
Number 3 is extraordinarily strong. I use them whenever possible
– vikingsteve
Jan 22 at 10:50
1
I really love the middle anchor as well (E-Z Ancor) due to being able to install them quickly with a drill. Although they are described as "self-tapping", I prefer to give them a small pilot hole for alignment and then proceed to then drill all of the necessary anchors at once after preparing a surface.
– Zhro
Jan 22 at 12:48
1
I have found toggle bolts to be a good option for plaster. The others can end up cracking the plaster and falling out.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:22
1
Don't even think of using standard plugs (rightmost) on plasterboard. They'll pull out and damage the board when they do. They are for use in bricks, where they hold superbly well. They also work in lightweight concrete blocks, but there are special versions (none of the above) which are sold explicitly for concrete blocks and which hold much better.
– nigel222
Jan 22 at 16:26
3
@vikingsteve Which #3? #3 from the left or #3 from the right?
– conman
Jan 22 at 19:52
|
show 4 more comments
1
Number 3 is extraordinarily strong. I use them whenever possible
– vikingsteve
Jan 22 at 10:50
1
I really love the middle anchor as well (E-Z Ancor) due to being able to install them quickly with a drill. Although they are described as "self-tapping", I prefer to give them a small pilot hole for alignment and then proceed to then drill all of the necessary anchors at once after preparing a surface.
– Zhro
Jan 22 at 12:48
1
I have found toggle bolts to be a good option for plaster. The others can end up cracking the plaster and falling out.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:22
1
Don't even think of using standard plugs (rightmost) on plasterboard. They'll pull out and damage the board when they do. They are for use in bricks, where they hold superbly well. They also work in lightweight concrete blocks, but there are special versions (none of the above) which are sold explicitly for concrete blocks and which hold much better.
– nigel222
Jan 22 at 16:26
3
@vikingsteve Which #3? #3 from the left or #3 from the right?
– conman
Jan 22 at 19:52
1
1
Number 3 is extraordinarily strong. I use them whenever possible
– vikingsteve
Jan 22 at 10:50
Number 3 is extraordinarily strong. I use them whenever possible
– vikingsteve
Jan 22 at 10:50
1
1
I really love the middle anchor as well (E-Z Ancor) due to being able to install them quickly with a drill. Although they are described as "self-tapping", I prefer to give them a small pilot hole for alignment and then proceed to then drill all of the necessary anchors at once after preparing a surface.
– Zhro
Jan 22 at 12:48
I really love the middle anchor as well (E-Z Ancor) due to being able to install them quickly with a drill. Although they are described as "self-tapping", I prefer to give them a small pilot hole for alignment and then proceed to then drill all of the necessary anchors at once after preparing a surface.
– Zhro
Jan 22 at 12:48
1
1
I have found toggle bolts to be a good option for plaster. The others can end up cracking the plaster and falling out.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:22
I have found toggle bolts to be a good option for plaster. The others can end up cracking the plaster and falling out.
– JimmyJames
Jan 22 at 15:22
1
1
Don't even think of using standard plugs (rightmost) on plasterboard. They'll pull out and damage the board when they do. They are for use in bricks, where they hold superbly well. They also work in lightweight concrete blocks, but there are special versions (none of the above) which are sold explicitly for concrete blocks and which hold much better.
– nigel222
Jan 22 at 16:26
Don't even think of using standard plugs (rightmost) on plasterboard. They'll pull out and damage the board when they do. They are for use in bricks, where they hold superbly well. They also work in lightweight concrete blocks, but there are special versions (none of the above) which are sold explicitly for concrete blocks and which hold much better.
– nigel222
Jan 22 at 16:26
3
3
@vikingsteve Which #3? #3 from the left or #3 from the right?
– conman
Jan 22 at 19:52
@vikingsteve Which #3? #3 from the left or #3 from the right?
– conman
Jan 22 at 19:52
|
show 4 more comments
As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood.
If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
7
Wooden matchsticks (with the tip removed) also work well.
– mpdonadio
Jan 20 at 21:31
2
Good tip. Before those plastic expanding plugs (like in the 50's), they used to pound round wood blocks into holes and put a wood screw in there. I've seen this in old block walls in old buildings.
– element11
Jan 21 at 14:43
1
i use gofl tees :)
– Quoc Vu
Jan 21 at 18:25
I had to do something similar (wood, not drywall) and I just bought a wooden dowel, cut to length and then jammed it in there with wood glue, the screw went in beautifully.
– WELZ
Jan 22 at 13:07
add a comment |
As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood.
If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
7
Wooden matchsticks (with the tip removed) also work well.
– mpdonadio
Jan 20 at 21:31
2
Good tip. Before those plastic expanding plugs (like in the 50's), they used to pound round wood blocks into holes and put a wood screw in there. I've seen this in old block walls in old buildings.
– element11
Jan 21 at 14:43
1
i use gofl tees :)
– Quoc Vu
Jan 21 at 18:25
I had to do something similar (wood, not drywall) and I just bought a wooden dowel, cut to length and then jammed it in there with wood glue, the screw went in beautifully.
– WELZ
Jan 22 at 13:07
add a comment |
As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood.
If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood.
If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 20 at 19:29
MachavityMachavity
7,61311838
7,61311838
7
Wooden matchsticks (with the tip removed) also work well.
– mpdonadio
Jan 20 at 21:31
2
Good tip. Before those plastic expanding plugs (like in the 50's), they used to pound round wood blocks into holes and put a wood screw in there. I've seen this in old block walls in old buildings.
– element11
Jan 21 at 14:43
1
i use gofl tees :)
– Quoc Vu
Jan 21 at 18:25
I had to do something similar (wood, not drywall) and I just bought a wooden dowel, cut to length and then jammed it in there with wood glue, the screw went in beautifully.
– WELZ
Jan 22 at 13:07
add a comment |
7
Wooden matchsticks (with the tip removed) also work well.
– mpdonadio
Jan 20 at 21:31
2
Good tip. Before those plastic expanding plugs (like in the 50's), they used to pound round wood blocks into holes and put a wood screw in there. I've seen this in old block walls in old buildings.
– element11
Jan 21 at 14:43
1
i use gofl tees :)
– Quoc Vu
Jan 21 at 18:25
I had to do something similar (wood, not drywall) and I just bought a wooden dowel, cut to length and then jammed it in there with wood glue, the screw went in beautifully.
– WELZ
Jan 22 at 13:07
7
7
Wooden matchsticks (with the tip removed) also work well.
– mpdonadio
Jan 20 at 21:31
Wooden matchsticks (with the tip removed) also work well.
– mpdonadio
Jan 20 at 21:31
2
2
Good tip. Before those plastic expanding plugs (like in the 50's), they used to pound round wood blocks into holes and put a wood screw in there. I've seen this in old block walls in old buildings.
– element11
Jan 21 at 14:43
Good tip. Before those plastic expanding plugs (like in the 50's), they used to pound round wood blocks into holes and put a wood screw in there. I've seen this in old block walls in old buildings.
– element11
Jan 21 at 14:43
1
1
i use gofl tees :)
– Quoc Vu
Jan 21 at 18:25
i use gofl tees :)
– Quoc Vu
Jan 21 at 18:25
I had to do something similar (wood, not drywall) and I just bought a wooden dowel, cut to length and then jammed it in there with wood glue, the screw went in beautifully.
– WELZ
Jan 22 at 13:07
I had to do something similar (wood, not drywall) and I just bought a wooden dowel, cut to length and then jammed it in there with wood glue, the screw went in beautifully.
– WELZ
Jan 22 at 13:07
add a comment |
The wall looks like plaster or drywall (aka sheetrock). You insert an "anchor" into the hole and thread a screw into the anchor. plastic anchors for plaster or drywall
But if there is solid wood of sufficient dimensions behind the plaster you use a long enough screw to thread into the wood. In your case, if you have good wood behind the plaster, but you have drilled too large a hole for the screw, just use a long enough anchor to fit an inch or more into the wood and thread in the screw. The anchor will expand as the screw goes in and will grip the sides of the hole in the wood.
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
add a comment |
The wall looks like plaster or drywall (aka sheetrock). You insert an "anchor" into the hole and thread a screw into the anchor. plastic anchors for plaster or drywall
But if there is solid wood of sufficient dimensions behind the plaster you use a long enough screw to thread into the wood. In your case, if you have good wood behind the plaster, but you have drilled too large a hole for the screw, just use a long enough anchor to fit an inch or more into the wood and thread in the screw. The anchor will expand as the screw goes in and will grip the sides of the hole in the wood.
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
add a comment |
The wall looks like plaster or drywall (aka sheetrock). You insert an "anchor" into the hole and thread a screw into the anchor. plastic anchors for plaster or drywall
But if there is solid wood of sufficient dimensions behind the plaster you use a long enough screw to thread into the wood. In your case, if you have good wood behind the plaster, but you have drilled too large a hole for the screw, just use a long enough anchor to fit an inch or more into the wood and thread in the screw. The anchor will expand as the screw goes in and will grip the sides of the hole in the wood.
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
The wall looks like plaster or drywall (aka sheetrock). You insert an "anchor" into the hole and thread a screw into the anchor. plastic anchors for plaster or drywall
But if there is solid wood of sufficient dimensions behind the plaster you use a long enough screw to thread into the wood. In your case, if you have good wood behind the plaster, but you have drilled too large a hole for the screw, just use a long enough anchor to fit an inch or more into the wood and thread in the screw. The anchor will expand as the screw goes in and will grip the sides of the hole in the wood.
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
answered Jan 20 at 12:24
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.7k11332
11.7k11332
add a comment |
add a comment |
For oversized holes in wood, lightly tap in a glue coated dowel and redrill the screw hole. This may require widening the hole to the next available dowel size. For holes in un-backed drywall, use an anchor. (Your hardware store will have various kinds, but the simple plastic ones usually work fine for light loads.) If the particular hole in question try inserting an anchor first. If it has wood behind it that prevents use of an anchor, use the dowel and cut it flush to the drywall surface. Fill in any gaps between the dowel and the drywall with spackling, drywall mud or other filler recommended by your hardware store.
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
After waiting for the glue to dry, e.g. Overnight.
– Harper
Jan 22 at 21:56
add a comment |
For oversized holes in wood, lightly tap in a glue coated dowel and redrill the screw hole. This may require widening the hole to the next available dowel size. For holes in un-backed drywall, use an anchor. (Your hardware store will have various kinds, but the simple plastic ones usually work fine for light loads.) If the particular hole in question try inserting an anchor first. If it has wood behind it that prevents use of an anchor, use the dowel and cut it flush to the drywall surface. Fill in any gaps between the dowel and the drywall with spackling, drywall mud or other filler recommended by your hardware store.
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
After waiting for the glue to dry, e.g. Overnight.
– Harper
Jan 22 at 21:56
add a comment |
For oversized holes in wood, lightly tap in a glue coated dowel and redrill the screw hole. This may require widening the hole to the next available dowel size. For holes in un-backed drywall, use an anchor. (Your hardware store will have various kinds, but the simple plastic ones usually work fine for light loads.) If the particular hole in question try inserting an anchor first. If it has wood behind it that prevents use of an anchor, use the dowel and cut it flush to the drywall surface. Fill in any gaps between the dowel and the drywall with spackling, drywall mud or other filler recommended by your hardware store.
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
For oversized holes in wood, lightly tap in a glue coated dowel and redrill the screw hole. This may require widening the hole to the next available dowel size. For holes in un-backed drywall, use an anchor. (Your hardware store will have various kinds, but the simple plastic ones usually work fine for light loads.) If the particular hole in question try inserting an anchor first. If it has wood behind it that prevents use of an anchor, use the dowel and cut it flush to the drywall surface. Fill in any gaps between the dowel and the drywall with spackling, drywall mud or other filler recommended by your hardware store.
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
edited Jan 20 at 15:28
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
answered Jan 20 at 15:23
PooneilPooneil
20113
20113
After waiting for the glue to dry, e.g. Overnight.
– Harper
Jan 22 at 21:56
add a comment |
After waiting for the glue to dry, e.g. Overnight.
– Harper
Jan 22 at 21:56
After waiting for the glue to dry, e.g. Overnight.
– Harper
Jan 22 at 21:56
After waiting for the glue to dry, e.g. Overnight.
– Harper
Jan 22 at 21:56
add a comment |
Instead of a dowel you could squirt some wood glue in hole and put wooded toothpicks in until you can't fit anymore. Wait a few hours and break off the toothpicks flush with the drywall. You should be able to use the original screw. I am a finish carpenter and have done this before.
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
Just seen the post below also mentioning the toothpicks. Screws work on compression so as long as the hole is filled with wood you'll be good
– Scottieboombox
Jan 20 at 20:23
add a comment |
Instead of a dowel you could squirt some wood glue in hole and put wooded toothpicks in until you can't fit anymore. Wait a few hours and break off the toothpicks flush with the drywall. You should be able to use the original screw. I am a finish carpenter and have done this before.
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
Just seen the post below also mentioning the toothpicks. Screws work on compression so as long as the hole is filled with wood you'll be good
– Scottieboombox
Jan 20 at 20:23
add a comment |
Instead of a dowel you could squirt some wood glue in hole and put wooded toothpicks in until you can't fit anymore. Wait a few hours and break off the toothpicks flush with the drywall. You should be able to use the original screw. I am a finish carpenter and have done this before.
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
Instead of a dowel you could squirt some wood glue in hole and put wooded toothpicks in until you can't fit anymore. Wait a few hours and break off the toothpicks flush with the drywall. You should be able to use the original screw. I am a finish carpenter and have done this before.
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
edited Jan 20 at 23:23
Nic
60631426
60631426
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
answered Jan 20 at 20:22
ScottieboomboxScottieboombox
511
511
Just seen the post below also mentioning the toothpicks. Screws work on compression so as long as the hole is filled with wood you'll be good
– Scottieboombox
Jan 20 at 20:23
add a comment |
Just seen the post below also mentioning the toothpicks. Screws work on compression so as long as the hole is filled with wood you'll be good
– Scottieboombox
Jan 20 at 20:23
Just seen the post below also mentioning the toothpicks. Screws work on compression so as long as the hole is filled with wood you'll be good
– Scottieboombox
Jan 20 at 20:23
Just seen the post below also mentioning the toothpicks. Screws work on compression so as long as the hole is filled with wood you'll be good
– Scottieboombox
Jan 20 at 20:23
add a comment |
You can close up the big hole with some putty, and screw your screw after it dries.
It is always recommended to use a plastic anchor for better wall grip.
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
1
Sounds like you're suggesting screwing into a repair made with putty? Putty is cosmetic, and will not hold a screw, It would all come out of the hole even if you tried this.
– JPhi1618
Jan 21 at 16:09
@JPhi1618, general-use drywall joint compound is as hard as drywall itself, when properly applied.
– sleblanc
Jan 21 at 20:49
I think this answer is correct but need a lot of clarification on what types of putty are appropriate, and if any techniques (taping, etc) are needed.
– Adonalsium
Jan 22 at 14:40
add a comment |
You can close up the big hole with some putty, and screw your screw after it dries.
It is always recommended to use a plastic anchor for better wall grip.
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
1
Sounds like you're suggesting screwing into a repair made with putty? Putty is cosmetic, and will not hold a screw, It would all come out of the hole even if you tried this.
– JPhi1618
Jan 21 at 16:09
@JPhi1618, general-use drywall joint compound is as hard as drywall itself, when properly applied.
– sleblanc
Jan 21 at 20:49
I think this answer is correct but need a lot of clarification on what types of putty are appropriate, and if any techniques (taping, etc) are needed.
– Adonalsium
Jan 22 at 14:40
add a comment |
You can close up the big hole with some putty, and screw your screw after it dries.
It is always recommended to use a plastic anchor for better wall grip.
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
You can close up the big hole with some putty, and screw your screw after it dries.
It is always recommended to use a plastic anchor for better wall grip.
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
answered Jan 20 at 15:04
gil_mogil_mo
111
111
1
Sounds like you're suggesting screwing into a repair made with putty? Putty is cosmetic, and will not hold a screw, It would all come out of the hole even if you tried this.
– JPhi1618
Jan 21 at 16:09
@JPhi1618, general-use drywall joint compound is as hard as drywall itself, when properly applied.
– sleblanc
Jan 21 at 20:49
I think this answer is correct but need a lot of clarification on what types of putty are appropriate, and if any techniques (taping, etc) are needed.
– Adonalsium
Jan 22 at 14:40
add a comment |
1
Sounds like you're suggesting screwing into a repair made with putty? Putty is cosmetic, and will not hold a screw, It would all come out of the hole even if you tried this.
– JPhi1618
Jan 21 at 16:09
@JPhi1618, general-use drywall joint compound is as hard as drywall itself, when properly applied.
– sleblanc
Jan 21 at 20:49
I think this answer is correct but need a lot of clarification on what types of putty are appropriate, and if any techniques (taping, etc) are needed.
– Adonalsium
Jan 22 at 14:40
1
1
Sounds like you're suggesting screwing into a repair made with putty? Putty is cosmetic, and will not hold a screw, It would all come out of the hole even if you tried this.
– JPhi1618
Jan 21 at 16:09
Sounds like you're suggesting screwing into a repair made with putty? Putty is cosmetic, and will not hold a screw, It would all come out of the hole even if you tried this.
– JPhi1618
Jan 21 at 16:09
@JPhi1618, general-use drywall joint compound is as hard as drywall itself, when properly applied.
– sleblanc
Jan 21 at 20:49
@JPhi1618, general-use drywall joint compound is as hard as drywall itself, when properly applied.
– sleblanc
Jan 21 at 20:49
I think this answer is correct but need a lot of clarification on what types of putty are appropriate, and if any techniques (taping, etc) are needed.
– Adonalsium
Jan 22 at 14:40
I think this answer is correct but need a lot of clarification on what types of putty are appropriate, and if any techniques (taping, etc) are needed.
– Adonalsium
Jan 22 at 14:40
add a comment |
I think that using anchors, already mentioned, is the best solution. Besides the already mentioned answers, there are many different options available to you:
Drill an 8mm hole in the bracket and use a 7 mm screw into the 6mm hole.
Drill another hole in the bracket that is about a centimeter or so away from the original hole and insert a screw through that hole. Generally, the hole in the bracket should be 1 or 2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw.
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
add a comment |
I think that using anchors, already mentioned, is the best solution. Besides the already mentioned answers, there are many different options available to you:
Drill an 8mm hole in the bracket and use a 7 mm screw into the 6mm hole.
Drill another hole in the bracket that is about a centimeter or so away from the original hole and insert a screw through that hole. Generally, the hole in the bracket should be 1 or 2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw.
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
add a comment |
I think that using anchors, already mentioned, is the best solution. Besides the already mentioned answers, there are many different options available to you:
Drill an 8mm hole in the bracket and use a 7 mm screw into the 6mm hole.
Drill another hole in the bracket that is about a centimeter or so away from the original hole and insert a screw through that hole. Generally, the hole in the bracket should be 1 or 2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw.
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
I think that using anchors, already mentioned, is the best solution. Besides the already mentioned answers, there are many different options available to you:
Drill an 8mm hole in the bracket and use a 7 mm screw into the 6mm hole.
Drill another hole in the bracket that is about a centimeter or so away from the original hole and insert a screw through that hole. Generally, the hole in the bracket should be 1 or 2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw.
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
edited Jan 21 at 14:35
Machavity
7,61311838
7,61311838
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
answered Jan 21 at 4:59
Itsme2003Itsme2003
1111
1111
add a comment |
add a comment |
If your hole is too large to take a wall plug or anchor, then your best solution is to fill the hole with filler (e.g. Polyfilla), leave it to fully harden, and then redrill the hole to the correct size. You don't need to worry too much about filling the hole perfectly flush - it'll be covered by the plate anyway.
Looking at your hole though, I suspect you may just want a larger diameter.
Note that all screws into plasterboard/drywall should use some kind of appropriate wall plug or anchor for plasterboard. Contrary to spurious claims by some screw manufacturers, it is not possible to securely fasten a screw directly into plasterboard. The point loads on the screw thread will always weaken the plasterboard, and the fixing will inevitably pull loose after not very long. This is particularly going to be an issue for your blind - you don't want it falling off!
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
add a comment |
If your hole is too large to take a wall plug or anchor, then your best solution is to fill the hole with filler (e.g. Polyfilla), leave it to fully harden, and then redrill the hole to the correct size. You don't need to worry too much about filling the hole perfectly flush - it'll be covered by the plate anyway.
Looking at your hole though, I suspect you may just want a larger diameter.
Note that all screws into plasterboard/drywall should use some kind of appropriate wall plug or anchor for plasterboard. Contrary to spurious claims by some screw manufacturers, it is not possible to securely fasten a screw directly into plasterboard. The point loads on the screw thread will always weaken the plasterboard, and the fixing will inevitably pull loose after not very long. This is particularly going to be an issue for your blind - you don't want it falling off!
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
add a comment |
If your hole is too large to take a wall plug or anchor, then your best solution is to fill the hole with filler (e.g. Polyfilla), leave it to fully harden, and then redrill the hole to the correct size. You don't need to worry too much about filling the hole perfectly flush - it'll be covered by the plate anyway.
Looking at your hole though, I suspect you may just want a larger diameter.
Note that all screws into plasterboard/drywall should use some kind of appropriate wall plug or anchor for plasterboard. Contrary to spurious claims by some screw manufacturers, it is not possible to securely fasten a screw directly into plasterboard. The point loads on the screw thread will always weaken the plasterboard, and the fixing will inevitably pull loose after not very long. This is particularly going to be an issue for your blind - you don't want it falling off!
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
If your hole is too large to take a wall plug or anchor, then your best solution is to fill the hole with filler (e.g. Polyfilla), leave it to fully harden, and then redrill the hole to the correct size. You don't need to worry too much about filling the hole perfectly flush - it'll be covered by the plate anyway.
Looking at your hole though, I suspect you may just want a larger diameter.
Note that all screws into plasterboard/drywall should use some kind of appropriate wall plug or anchor for plasterboard. Contrary to spurious claims by some screw manufacturers, it is not possible to securely fasten a screw directly into plasterboard. The point loads on the screw thread will always weaken the plasterboard, and the fixing will inevitably pull loose after not very long. This is particularly going to be an issue for your blind - you don't want it falling off!
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
answered Jan 21 at 17:56
GrahamGraham
75847
75847
add a comment |
add a comment |
Here's a technique I learned from a my uncle who's 80 years old.
Find a a piece of wood that could be hammered into the hole.
hammer it and break the the part that's sticking out.
Done, time to drill the screw to the hole.
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
add a comment |
Here's a technique I learned from a my uncle who's 80 years old.
Find a a piece of wood that could be hammered into the hole.
hammer it and break the the part that's sticking out.
Done, time to drill the screw to the hole.
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
add a comment |
Here's a technique I learned from a my uncle who's 80 years old.
Find a a piece of wood that could be hammered into the hole.
hammer it and break the the part that's sticking out.
Done, time to drill the screw to the hole.
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
Here's a technique I learned from a my uncle who's 80 years old.
Find a a piece of wood that could be hammered into the hole.
hammer it and break the the part that's sticking out.
Done, time to drill the screw to the hole.
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
answered Jan 25 at 10:13
adimonaadimona
1
1
add a comment |
add a comment |
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Does the metal bracket offer more hole locations than you actually need? If so, perhaps you could just drill a new hole...
– unutbu
Jan 20 at 12:33
1
@unutbu, hole location at the top are not possible as the wall structure is weak. So the better option is to place the screw at the side
– hunterex
Jan 20 at 12:40
1
Can you edit your question to say what the wall is made of please?
– Martin Bonner
Jan 21 at 9:32
@MartinBonner - indeed. I think far to many people are assuming everybody uses plasterboard/drywall everywhere... that wall looks far more like there's going to be brick or block behind it; in which case the answer would be far different [double-depth hole & longer screw to reach a rawl plug in the harder substrate]
– Tetsujin
Jan 23 at 11:44